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WiFi Notes

This post is some notes about setting up an external WiFi adapters and antennas to improve range. Most of this is personal experience from amateur radio mesh networking, but I can cite sources if needed. Also, we're mostly going to focus on 2.4GHz as it's the most commonly supported but also the cheapest for both cards and external antennas.

Two big choices to make

Antenna choice

Antenna selection is the single most impactful choice to WiFi range, as your antenna affects both the signal coming and going to your card - transmit power only impacts power from your card to the access point, and receive sensitivity only helps if there's very little interference. There are two general families of antenna - directional and omnidirectional. These aren't so much categories, but every antenna lives somewhere on this scale. Nearly every antenna that's integrated with a card or laptop is omnidirectional. But, directional antennas have some pretty sweet advantages. Also make sure your card's connector matches your antenna. It's easiest to use RP-SMA on both ends.

Directional / Highly Directional

These have a fairly tight, to very tight beam width. The can also have much higher gain but only inside that tight beam width. Example Click on 'specs' to see antenna pattern. Think of it like a watergun(directional) vs a mister(omni).
  • Downside: Usually needs pointing every time you move. This can be improved with a flexible-tripod attachment, or if you have a steel ceiling you can use two magnets and some string.
  • Upside: Directionals pick up more signal from whatever you're pointed at.
  • Mixed: Directionals are more likely to miss something you're not pointed at while scanning, but also won't hear locally close but not aimed-at radios so much, so there's less interference.
  • Upside: In the US, you can use a higher power transmitter with a directional antenna. Math is shown later in this post.
If you're interested in cheap Chinese directional antennas($5-$20 shipped), watch out - two of three models are garbage, but the other is awesome. They're all around the same price. Referencing this photo, you don't want the ones on the left where the cable runs into a big plastic bulge. If you flip the middle and rightmost antennas around, the metal ring coming from the cable's endpoint has an RF choke(black cylinder) on the middle ones, but the rightmost antennas don't. You want the one with the RF choke. Also, I've only ever seen the good antennas with white cables, but that's not guaranteed to stay that way. The good ones are also less common on eBay; I suspect because they're more expensive to make but compete with the cheap ones.


Omnidirectional antennas have similar signal strength in a circle perpendicular to the antenna itself. This means you shouldn't point an omni at a target, but mount it at a 90-degree angle to it. If you get a weatherproof one, you can mount it above the van and run the cable inside - this will work much better than placing it inside or even in a window.
  • Upside: mount them vertically once and talk to people in any direction.
  • Downside: you'll pick up everyone around you. This means you'll get interference from everything near you.
  • Not-as-great-as-directional: In the US, once you hit the max of transmitter power and antenna gain, any improvement to antenna gain must be balanced with an equal decrease in transmitter power. Math is shown later in this post.

Card selection

This is less important than antenna selection, but needs to work reliably with your laptop. Also make sure your card's connector matches your antenna. It's easiest to use RP-SMA on both ends.


RF: Use RP-SMA(unless you're going to have a ton of cable between your card and antenna. If that's the case use N on both ends, but you should probably not have much cable between the card and antenna if you can use a USB extension instead).
card-computer: USB, PCMCIA Express, miniPCI-E are your options. Use USB. USB extension cables are super cheap and signals-wise they work better than RF-extension cables. PCMCIA Express means hard-to-find extension cables. miniPCI-E involves routing a cable from the inside of your laptop to the outside and that's just a pain.


Speeds sorted by speediness:
  • 802.11ad. super fast. Super-new, very rare so far.
  • 802.11ac. very fast. New, common on new laptops.
  • 802.11n. up to 150 with single antenna, faster with more. Probably most common right now.
  • 802.11g. up to 54mbps. Old, but fast enough for internet browsing
  • 802.11b. up to 11mbps, so old you won't likely find them
  • 802.11. 1-2mbps, ancient.
But...speed isn't everything - whenever there's marginal signal strength(like when we're going for range), the access point and card will both drop back in speed to improve range. Overall, a quality card from a previous generation tends to outperform a newer, faster, mediocre card, at ranges where the faster card has to drop down in speed anyways. Additionally, many of the new fancy high-speed modes(802.11n at 300 or higher, 802.11ac) only reach those speeds if multiple antennas can be used simultaneously - rarely do they improve reliability or range, and we won't likely be using more than one antenna. Going oldeslower than 802.11n isn't usually any cheaper these days, so that's where I'd start at a minimum, and 802.11ac cards with RP-SMA antenna connectors are also becoming reasonable as well.


Make sure whatever card you select works well with the operating system you use. Read the notes from the supplier, read the box if you can, read the comments on Amazon. Rarely, manufacturers will change chipsets in the same plastics, but that's hard to predict.

Chipset Brands

The chipset is the silicon radio inside the card. This largely determines driver compatibility and reliability. Some brands tend to be better than others. Atheros and Intel are top notch. Broadcom's pretty good but not so good on Linux. Ralink and Realtek are budget chipsets, but usually work fine(With the exception of Realtek RTL8187L, which is as good as Atheros/Intel). I'm not familiar with Marvel/Qualcomm/MTK's gear, but they're less common in the USB adapter space.


A cardmaker's electrical design and chipset selection largely determine the radio performance. Alfa and Ubiquiti are known good brands that have this together, for other brands you can usually find information on receive sensitivity and transmit power, which are the actual measurements you care about. If a company doesn't publish their sensitivity and power, it's probably not great but I have had a few winners in the $5-$15 range.

Receive Sensitivity

This denotes the minimum signal a card can pick up in a clean RF environment(like outdoors). Signals stronger than this can be heard, and signals below this cannot. This measurement takes place either at the antenna connector or on the PCB, so either way it's not considering what antenna you may have. This number is actually measured for each supported speed, so to compare two cards, find the sensitivity for each card at the same speed(maybe compare two different ones, on the high and low end) - the card with the lower number(larger negative value) is better. At most, I've seen a spread of around 14dB for this value depending on both chip and electrical design.

Transmit Power

This denotes the signal strength leaving the card. In general, a higher number means the other end can hear you better, but it doesn't mean you can hear them any better(for that you need better receive sensitivity, a higher gain antenna, or they need more power). This measurement is also independent of the antenna you select.

Questions to ask yourself

Are you willing to fiddle with your antenna

If you're willing to aim an antenna when you park, a directional antenna will provide much better performance. If you're unwilling, you can mount an omni outside and feed the cable inside. Or, you could mount one in the window, but a weatherproof omni mounted outside is better.

Rural vs Suburban vs Urban

Urban / Suburban

In an urban/suburban setting, receive sensitivity is less useful as you'll get a lot of noise from other radios. Highly directional antennas may get you through a few houses, but work best when they have line of sight which is usually limited in a city, although sometimes you can bounce wifi off a building. So you may be better off with an omni-directional in a dense city.


If you're on the side of a valley trying to hit a coffee shop half a mile below you, you'll want a highly directional antenna(so you hear them and only them), good receive sensitivity(to help hear them), and a fair amount of transmit power(to help them hear you).

FCC Rules for USA

When combining an antenna and card yourself, you must not exceed the FCC limits. Interestingly, the limits change based on if you use omnidirectional vs directional. Some tables here. Antenna gain is usually measured in dBi, and transmit power is sometimes measured in dBm or milliwatts. Below here, we'll do all math in dB scale, since it's simpler. Use these calculators to convert if needed: dBm2mW and mW2dBm since converting isn't a linear conversion like between feet and meters.

For omnidirectional antennas

The rule is "transmit power in dBm" + "antenna gain in dBi" must be less than or equal to 36dBm. For example:
  • A 30dBm(1Watt) radio may have up to 6dBi of omnidirectional antenna gain.
  • An 18dBm(63mW) radio may have up to 18dBi of omnidirectional antenna gain.

For directional antennas

At 1 watt of transmit power, the rule is the same(30dBm radio + 6dBi antenna max). But, for every 1dBm the transmitter is quieter, you can add 3dBi of antenna gain.
  • A 30dBm(1Watt) radio may have up to 6dBi of directional antenna gain.
  • A 29dBm(800mW) radio may have up to 9dBi of directional antenna gain.
  • A 28dBm(630mW) radio may have up to 12dBi of directional antenna gain
  • A 27dBm(500mW) radio may have up to 15dBi of directional antenna gain.
  • A 24dBm(250mW) radio may have up to 18dBi of directional antenna gain.
  • A 21dBm(125mW) radio may have up to 27dBi of directional antenna gain.
This rule encourages folks to use less power, but direct it exactly where it needs to go with a stronger antenna, causing less or similar interference overall. This also means that if you have a standard-power USB adapter, something in the 25mW-75mW range, you can pretty much add whatever antenna you can find without exceeding the limits.
Edit: added RTL8187L chipset.
submitted by rsaxvc to vandwellers

Narrowed laptop search to two options, which is best? Asus TUF vs HP Omen

I've narrowed my choice down to two options which fit the bill (but I'm open to other suggestions):
- Asus TUF FX505GM https://www.harveynorman.com.au/asus-tuf-fx505gm-bn126t-15-6-inch-gaming-laptop.html
- HP Omen 15-DC0150TX https://www.jbhifi.com.au/computers-tablets/laptops/omen/hp-omen-15-dc0150tx-15-6-gaming-laptop/342574/

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15" or bigger

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Probably AutoCAD, potentially Civil3D and/or 12D (civil design & 3D modelling). Minor photo editing, nothing too intense

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Reliable build, something that will last longer than a couple of years

* **Leave any finishing thoughts here that you may feel are necessary and beneficial to the discussion.**
I'm after a new laptop that I can potentially use for some AutoCAD work. I'm after minimum 16GB ram, Intel Core i7, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060, 128 GB SSD, 1 TB HDD, and a screen 15" or larger. I'll mostly be using it around the house for internet, photos etc, but want the higher specs so I can use AutoCAD if I want
submitted by lilmisshaley to SuggestALaptop

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