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Burger Ingredient Discussion Series Part 2: ONIONS
Continuing the discussion we go into another portion of the L.T.O.P. garnishes (or L.T.O. if you don't like pickles) onions have a special place amongst burgers and with beef in general. Integral in cooking mirepoix, sofrito, holy trinity etc. it's ratio is usually twice the amount to the other ingredients. A huge difference though is that onions have a more compatible relationship with beef than celery, carrots, leeks etc. So I would like to explore two sections of how onions fit into a burger. Types of raw onion applications and cooking methods.
INGREDIENT: WHITE/YELLOW ONION
Super classic, if anything I think the most basic burger can be summed up with bun, meat, 1 sauce and 1 garnish. Onion would be the garnish that will always come first. Barring a sharp mustard, the onion will usually be the second flavour you will be tasting in a burger, although I feel that is if you are using the white/yellow variety. However this presents a problem. Some overzealous burger makers might go a bit too wild in either cutting the onion too thick equator wise to "stack em high" or do a "onion slice" which could create too much onion per bite. I've eaten a lot of underseasoned burgers where all I could taste was just onion.
There are ways to get by this which is to either chop the onions (Think Big Mac style) or have them in quarter rings (like the quarter pounder). It is interesting in even eating these two burgers you see the huge difference in onion flavour it brings to the burger. I personally prefer the thin rings with doing this type of onion, even if it might result in onion flossing and it coming out of the burger. But if you cut it thin enough, that should not be a problem. Appearance wise, this is as classic as it gets with the red and green of Tomato and Lettuce. If America took the Italian flag colours, then it would be put into burger form.
The best thing I find with these onions is that it provides a freshness that almost rivals lettuce. As said before, it's flavour and pungency can get in the way of it's texture of which lettuce has absolute domain over But the crunch. The crunch of the onion is something special. Because of something that usually has less of in comparison to the other garnishes, if you taste that crunch it can add a lot to a burger which is mostly soft. And that is the thing, any where you can add texture such as a crunch to a burger I feel adds so much to it of which the onions have a couple of ways of doing so. I personally feel that even if a burger does not have any sauce on it, it must have an onion component.
INGREDIENT: RED ONION
Red onions I personally feel have more of an aesthetic importance than flavour. Don't get me wrong, flavour is still important. Because it is sweeter and less pungent than white or yellow onions, it can be used as an "onion slice" with less issues. However the insides are still white which means aesthetically it can keep the classic look of red, green and white. But if you decide to go thicker in the slice (or have large chop) the colour creates a bit of a different contrast. It's not bad, but it now has too many like colours. The redness of the tomato, the purple red of the onion and the implied redness of the beef. Once again an entirely aesthetic issue but I feel when you eat with your eyes, this can be a difference between a classic burger and more modern/fancy one. I personally prefer red onions myself if I am going to have mine raw.
But this does bring up an interesting point. While I love red onions raw on a burger, I dislike them cooked. The benefit for red onions is that you can eat them raw without flinching, but for them to be cooked, the caramelization (while delicious) can dull the bright purple colour of the red onion. But this is just me being a stickler, I'd eat any burger if it tastes good, fuck colour aesthetics.
Shallots have a special place on burgers. Even more mild and with the benefits of it being a garlic hybrid, it has a better place on burgers when they are processed rather than just raw. Reason being that they lack the convenience and practicality of staying in the burger. Are you going to do lengthwise slices? Expect having half of it spill out onto the plate. How about across? Hope you have a mandolin cause you are going to be doing a lot of slices in order to get enough on a burger. It does have a huge advantage though. I personally found that if you want an onion taste in a burger but straight up don't want a raw one floating in the veg garnish or it's strength overloading your senses, shallots are perfect for being incorporated into sauces or spreads. Mild enough to work with whatever sauce you are putting it into, but not overpower it, compound butters, cheese spreads, mayos, dressings.
But in talking about how it's real strength is in being processed, shallots benefit from being made into caramelized shallots, pickled, jams, chutney etc. That way it being soft and broken down, it can be stick to each other, making for a more solid stable garnish in the burger. But now that we have mentioned this, we can move onto methods.
METHOD: CARAMELIZED ONIONS
Been hammered into our heads about caramelized onions for the past decade so I'm not going to delve too much into this. Glutamates, sweetness, maillard, blah blah blah. What I do want to talk about is how to finish it and one glaring downfall of this cooking method.
- To season or not to season? Seasoning the onions beyond salt adds some considerations to the burger as a whole. Classic flavours put into caramelizing onions are garlic, thyme, bay leaf, sherry vinegar, red wine or white wine. The first three round out the flavours so it's not just a sweet bomb. But maybe you want that sweetness to come through. Deglazing with either of the last three can also create an acidic balance instead. But it risks losing all the sweetness altogether. Sometimes it's this balancing act that goes against the less is more principle. As you add more, you make it this one thing more delicious. But does that make everything else delicious or just that one thing? I usually forgo any deglazing. Sweet onions for me.
- Food alchemy of equivalent exchange; texture for flavour: You gain flavour by losing freshnsss and texture. Another huge consideration. I think after considering bun and burger style, this is the 3rd most important thing to consider in a burger. Do you want a flavour bomb burger that will eventually just be all soft? Or do you want that fresh crunch and flavour of the raw onion? I think texture is a huge thing for hamburgers because for something to be so simple, to be great is in the details Any way you can create texture contrast can be the difference of alright to Holy shit. Sometimes you just want a meaty juicy burger, but at the cost of everything feeling soft.
As mentioned before, shallots benefit greatly from this method as do red onions. White and yellow, maybe no so much because their pungency is still there, but can be mitigated by the pickling process if you decide to do a hot pickle and have a lot of aromatics. I feel that pickling falls more in line in what onion tastes like compared to caramelization. That spicy nose tickling aroma that vinegars and onions share. Where as the aromatics of caramelized onions round out the flavour to make it taste more savoury, I feel the aromatics in vingars enhance the crisp bright flavours of pickled onions. For red onions especially the aesthetic helps because usually it will bleed and make the garnish a nice even pale pink which doesn't not contrast too harshly with the scheme. More like a highlight now. Application wise, I feel they can only be used with larger thicker burgers (What I like to called Menu Burgers) and with the addition of anything creamy such as guac, blue cheese or goat cheese. In a cool way it serves double duty as a dressing for any greens you have in the burger through the vinegar soaking through it, and eventually mixing in with whatever sauce you have in it.
METHOD: SAUTEED ONIONS
Me personally if you are going to saute onions, might as well caramelize them. They are a good middle ground between raw and caramelized, but I feel the benefits aren't up to par with it being raw or caramelized; it just feels lazy. One of the worst offenders is having that 1/2" dice of sauteed onions that end up making your burger a slidey mess. Still I think it has a huge role to play if you decide to Meatloaf your burger. Seasoning your meat mixture with other ingredients like pickle juice, onions, pepper, ketchup, mustard etc. sauteed onions would be the best candidate to make it onto the list. It adds moisture, flavour and just works well.
METHOD: ONION CHUTNEY OR ONION JAM
Speaking of middle ways, this method kinda takes the best of both worlds of caramelization and pickling. The cheat is that sugar is added heavily in these types of garnishes, but this creates a texture we have not yet mentioned. Tackiness. That stick to your roof quality made from reductions adds a lot to a burger, especially reminding you of the gelatinous nature of beef stock and especially beef bones. If pickles were a sharp blade, jams and chutneys are like a mace. They are blunt, well rounded...almost too far processed because of the labour involved. They will stand out as opposed to working along with the rest of the flavours. But if you want to make burgers all about contrast, this is it.
METHOD: ONION RING
I love onion rings when done right. But even if done right, I usually don't like it on a burger. I had only tasted one amazing burger that used the onion ring right. It was in a bluecheese burger and for some reason it worked. That batter offered a crispiness in that overwhelming soft burger and a sharpness to the richness. Not so much to take it away, but almost to give you a break from how blue cheese filled it was. It was the best blue cheese burger I ever tasted at Market Grill on Granville Island.
And that is the thing, the risk of an onion ring creating "onion flossing" is already present when raw, when in onion ring format, it multiplies when you have a batter that might let it slip out easier. But when executed right, it replaces all the problems had with sauteed onions, raw white/yellow onions and the softness of cooked onions in one package. You will get the benefit of a cooked onion as gentle as a saute; the overpowering potential of raw/yellow onions is made milder by cooking; and the lost of crispness is substituted by the batter!
For me the onion ring is the opposite of the sauteed onion. A lot of effort is put into it, labour but it's ease to fit into a burger needs a lot more finesse than just fucking some cooked onions onto it. You need one or would two small ones look weird? Breaded or battered? Or are you even going to go further and make onion crisps instead? Do you season the onion ring beyond salt? Unlike chutneys/jams, I feel the onion ring is only there for support and not to be the star of the show. But unfortunately from just general aesthetics, it usually does become the star of the show only to disappoint.
So what has been your experiences with onions in a burger? Has it ever been a stand out part of yours? What do you use, what did you feel about it. What other onion equivalents have you used? Have I missed anything?